The final idea should look like this with an R7 fairing

Well I know that the R7 fairing is waiting for me at work! So ill pop over and collect it on Tuesday!
This is the last piece ( I think) which I need to order before a test session, think I can make the rest. my first trial is to have it run at a track that I'm familiar with and compare times to the Vfr that I ran last year which had severe grounding problems and lack of HP.....( too short 954 fireblade forks causing footrests, fairing/ and later belly pan to hit the ground....nearly launching me on paddock hill bend).

At the mo, I'm a bit concerned that the exhaust will be the first casualty as it seems to stick out rather...wish it was a left hand exit type.

And the noise!...I even tried it today with the Db killer .... didnt make much difference compared yesterday's test.

Crankcase breather

Heres a pic, I've tapped it in but also put some epoxy sealant round the base. Ill get round to linking it with a collecting vessel/ breathing box of some sort. It may help the engine
Rev a little freer. Funny though I remember my TLR1000 which use to spin up like a 4 cylinder.

First fire up

First fire up, connected a quick release fuel line connector for ease of maintenance, highly recommended as they don't leak, self cut off  etc. fidgeted the vacuum hoses on. Let the starter run without leads on so oil is pumped around as its been sitting for months without oil.

Connected plugs and leads. Squirted ether down the funnels and thumbed the starter. Took a 30 seconds of squirting but this would make the engine fire up in spits and starts helping the fuel pump prime the carb...at the time of running, the ignition was on full advance, sounded terrifyingly loud once running...!...thumbs up to Projection components!

Crankcase breather

I've put a black dot on where I'm going to drill through and tap this brass connector in. It's the flattest part of the cover, the hole should miss the wiring from the generator and pulsar pickups. Ill also use a little epoxy metal to make sure I've got a air tight seal.

Just for fun I'd thought I'd check that my home brew electrics will work. Stupidly I've wired it so its permanently on, I thought I had the stop switch wired so it cuts power to everything but didnt quite get it right. At least the rev counter lit up! With no throttle cables cut to length yet and no tank I just used some easy start ether spray just to see if it fires up. Once I'd swapped the coil leads over the bike fired up.....! Very loud!.....ill post a vid soon but I'm sure it's too loud!

The first bemsee meeting at Snetterton

This time last year it was hot and sunny and got 2 trophies at Snetterton, today it's under snow and minus 2... Picture curtesy of bemsee

Saturday racing and they all went out in the sleet.....puts the car racers to shame!

Front fairing stay and clock mount

Welldone baza from motobits, he can't measure, I asked is the distance between the bracket mounting holes 65mm, he sais yes, well it arrives and I offer it up and it doesn't fit, 10mm out. So in true British fashion instead of sending it back and waiting ages I made a bracket to fit so it could fit to the Frame stem lugs. It also pushes it out a touch which stops the brake reservoir fouling when I turn the steering. Affixed the rev counter. Its really neat and small, it just 4 digits, the engine will rev to around 10000, so 9999 will do the job.
Also trying to work out where my gps timer will go..not sure yet. and my front mudguard arrived form another bidder, lucky one got away,

Correct sprockets for a trx850 and yzf750 sprocket carrier is!

Found the correct sprockets for the trx/yfr750. The sprocket carrier has 6 holes, 150 mm diameter , the sprocket has to have an inner diameter of 130mm so it can fit on the carrier. I've gone for the 520 pitch conversion race chain and sprockets, most front sprockets fit as they have the same diameter and number of grooves. The only bike that has the same dimensions above are the yzf600 thundercat, not the r6 that I was led to believe which turned out to be dodgy advice. Luckily A and R racing are sorting this out. The earlier r6 was 145mm with 5 holes, the later r6 from 2003 had 6 holes but were 130 diam I think.

Luckily the thundercat is still catered for and renthal do a 520 race kit with a range of rear sprockets.....so use my advice above!...thundercats rule!

Rev counter arrived today and my sprockets, however I had ordered the wrong rear sprocket, I know R 6 sprockets work but only after 2003. Ill post them back tomorrow . My rear disk should also come.
Mr r7 fairing is being made and that will arrive in a couple of weeks . Found a front faring bracket from an R1....ordered that.
An annoying thing on ebay I was bidding for a r1 front mudguard, only 9.99 I was the only bidder , the time ran until the end but it vanished...removed..that's surely wrong...if I can find the seller again ill advertise the person as someone to avoid.

Fuel pump and wiring start

Attached fuel pump onto a small plate which joins the 2 sides of the frame together, I welded this in to strengthen the cross member which is where the tank sits.
also positioned the CID box and rectifier. Just got to work out the routing of the solenoid , rest of the loom which I've butchered . Diagram to follow.

Things ordered

I'm currently waiting for several things :

Crash bungs for frame : arrived!
Renthal sprockets and chain, 45, 46 rear, 14, 15 front.
Cheap digital tachometer
Rear disk
R7 fibreglass fairing, base top coat unfinished but in black.

Paint scheme ideas: I'm thinking of black with something.

Fcr's on!

I've put the Thermostat on to see if it fits with the R6 Radiator, top ones fit, I've had to block off the Heater hose for the carburettors as I don't need them with my fcr's. I have to block off the bottom right exit of the rad as there's no where for it to go.
The fcr fit but the original throttle cables are too long so ill take them to kempton bike jumble in 2 weeks to have them shortened or just get a fresh set made up.
Now I can't remember where the fuel hoses go from each carb! It's not even clear in the workshop manual and even the Haynes manual. I can see the fuel pump has an inlet from the tank, then exit out, and a vacuum pipe which comes from inlet tract 1 and from tank tap vacuum pipe to inlet tract 2, but how does the fuel split to both carbs?.

Re fit exhaust

The headers weren't in correctly as the exhaust seemed too low....so I've fixed that, fixed r6 radiators place, it's wider and longer, the hole positions are wider apart than standard so I made 2 spacers out of. Aluminum tube. Exhaust is just under the engine now and the exhaust can is now higher.

Coming along

Back wheel in, needs aligning with front sprocket. I need to tinker with the exhaust bracket so it still looks unfinished and rough, I've got to raise than exhaust can up a touch and straighten it as at the moment it is angled outwards looking from the end cap direction. The tlr tank is a wide beast but does give it a different look, I haven't made my mind up yet about that.

Today I've temporary attached an r6 radiator, but I think I got the wrong model version, it might be too tall to fit leaving little room when the forks are compressed..

I've got to
1. Align sprockets( got to order some)
2. Fix the radiator.
3. Create the crankcase breather
4. Fx the exhaust.
5. Wiring loom+ tps rev limit fix
6. Clocks
7. Fairing brackets
8. Full fairing , r1, gsxr k5, r7
9. Brakes
10. Footrest hangers
11. Carb on
12. Test day, race entry with standard engine.
13. Time and money permitting......big bore kit/raised compression, race lift cams
14 make excuse to the wife that I need to spend a little more than an hour in the shed is needed.

Exhaust hanger

Knocked up an exhaust hanger, will smooth it when i know it's got the correct angle so to miss the swingarm. Tried my old tlr tank, kind of fits...not sure if its worth using as its fatter.

Got to think about the fairing soon,which one would suit best, Early R1 Or gsxr1100 2005, or R7.