sold

The Trx is sold................The end of this blog

Theres always thr VFR blogs to follow when I have a chance. 

Selling the trx

 Sad day today, I've been thinking about this for a few weeks now. I just can't see myself enjoying this anymore, I just don't have the time. Its a waste sitting in the garage so someone out there might want it, either as a race bike or to put it back for the road. Ill update with an ebay listing soon.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipO0NGeuKgz5sfLESx-AxwhzuaBD7ElCDa60gBKCBzx00Ec6g5-b23ZZpxaK6UoppQ?key=cjNDSU51ZHBUSkhaYnJIczJFa2pCbktSVnM1c3dR

update covid 19: have time to do a little more

just got the bike out and re thought the fairing, I will re use the R7 replica, it needs a little fixing here and there but have purchased a glass fibre repair kit, new screen, soon to add handle bar brake lever protectors. First fire up with Ignitech ignition unit. Have some vinyl wrap for the rear eat so ill have a go at that soon. I guess its taken me 5 years toget to this poin, now with covid19 no rush at all.

Tidying up the rear electrics

Cut down the rectifier fins so the seat can fit, attached to aluminium plate so will dissipate heat. Connected ignitec ignition , fitted gps lap timer module.

Ignitech ignition

Today arrived an Ignitech tcip4 programmable ignition unit. Hopefully this will cure the lumpy ness low down which caused me to high side at Donington a while back.

Been a year, update

Instead of a large full fairing , I’ve decided to minimise this by using the nose cone off my other machine( vfr750 racer) as that’s mothballed. Next tasks, create bracket for top faring to fit to the mount already used. Put some crash bungs on the side main frame engine mount. Fix the ignition with a Ignitech4 system on order. Already found a blockage and a leak in the petrol tap so that’s fixed now. Fit the rear rain light. Once I have it running, I can test the fuelling and ignition and put to rest the gearbox trouble I fear.

Revisiting the Trx after a long break

Still lots to do before a test , clocks nearly fixed to the front frame, just a bit of tweaking . Re filled water in the system after a being stored in the shed. Have a dent in the tank where the bike fell over and I will  put a new brake lever in as that’s snapped. The timing seems to go a bit astray, the TPS sensor while reading ok on the multimeter for resistances doesn’t want to work in the FCR TPS mount, the FCR has a shaft that rotates with the throttle but is on a spring mount , the TPS has too much springy resistance and I think the FCR shaft can not overcome this springy force.
Other things, I still have to wire in the rain light and switch, fix the faring and by a new clear screen. The it’s ready for a test ride.

Getting there...but no more money to spend.

Nearly there but not quite. Still got a list of 10 things to do. Trouble is a have no more money left.

Fairing frame needs bending back a little, fairing brackets need bending straight, fairing needs lifting up. Rear seat painting, lock stops added, fairing needs replacing or patching up properly, needs a track day.. 

quick start !....first time in 2 years!...

a surprise how easily the bike started, a few squirts of ether down the inlets, tank on and then bobs your uncle!...exhaust is'nt fitted just shoved on.

re-packaged the electricsBeen

Been a while since I have been able to get back into the shed. I have managed to squah all the electrics into a tiny space without tearing apart the wiring loom. Ive junked the starter safety circuit and just wired this through, all it did was prevent the starter from spinning once the engine fired....no need---junked!
the battery box was taken from a cbr600fh batterybox, which sits quite well in the frame. a few small support brackets and a number of cable ties works a treat. the ecu is velcro'd to the battery and sits behind it, the rectifier sits under the seat frame just above the battery, using the aluminium plate as a heat sink. I will later drill holes in this to lighten it a bit further. The fuel pump is bolted to the battery box but I have only used one side of the fuel pump to fix so Ive got to look at that again.
I quick test and it fired up, the fcrs are a gem .

Seat unit fitted,

Have the seat unit fitted, now working out how to fit the rectifier, starter soleniod, battery. Etc.

Bit more

Thermostat installed, R6 radiator attached, clutch cable and throttle cable connected. Rear caliper and rearsets done. Slowly coming back together. Next will be finding a new position for the fuel pump, wiring loom...then seat brackets.

New clutch plates

Easy job to do, don't even have to drain any oil out as its a dry sump motor. Inspecting the old plates showed they were worn down and the flat plates showed some sign of over heating with discolouration in some spots. 

Yokes back straightened and stem re-fitted, forks back on

I got my yokes back all straightened, it's incredible how a little twisted magnifies at the end of the forks.  Luckily the forks aren't bent and everything is true again. In a rich a made a silly mistake and forgot to put the bearing seal on the base of the stem shaft, I realised just as I tapped the new bearing down. How stupid!....so I'll have to sort that out at another time and re-order another bearing set. It's quite satisfying putting it back together when in no rush to do so, I don't have to get it back ready to race because I'm not going to get that far this year. If anything it'll be a couple of track days to fettle it.

Slowly things are happening!

Firstly the frame is in good nick and I've decided not to cut it down. There's no point really the amount in weight difference is minor I might as well get a small racing battery, plus I can always sell it later if I decide too or wheni know its running well maybe then I'll shave some off. I've got 2 seats, an r1 2006 grp which I paid miles too much for and a cbr600 2000 grp unit for 34 quid. The latter is a better fit, I only needed a small cut out for the seat to sit into position. I can make some simple aluminium brackets up to support it. I've posted the yokes off to Motoliners to get straightened. The stem this time will have the diameter increased by welding up then turned down to tolerance fit the bottom yoke, unlike the other method of being knurled up and the squashed in which failed in my crash at Donington( not the cause of the crash but loosened  under the impact). Forks look straight but can send them if I need to,maybe next month.  

Spare frame arrived today!

A few bits arrived, a spare frame for 200 quid complete with log book, wiring loom, clutch plates, and steering head bearings. I think I'll keep this intact without cutting the back end off like the other. In time I'll get the bent frame sorted out.

I'll have another go at the rear subframe as it was too complicated to take on and off. Atleast I'm not rushing to get it ready. I'll try and make a better job, also at the same time tinker with the Vfr race bike too. I can't see me racing this year, I have too many other jobs to do, plus even club racing requires a lot of disposable cash.....which I don't have anymore!

Original frame out of line

This view shows how twisted the frame is, been pushed to the right about 12 mm

New stuff coming

Instead of getting the frame straightened I thought it's just as cheap to find a spare frame. so I found one and waiting for it to be delivered! Same time I've ordered a spare wiring loom and set of head bearings. I'm thinking of stripping the engine to tweak the top end. 

Bent yokes!

The bottom yokes are bent too. Marching the direction of the head stock, must have been when then bike high sided and landed heavily on the left side of the wheel ( right from photos looking from the front)causing the bend. Forks may be ok, the look straight. The frame must be pretty weak at the head stock. I guess I'll have to strip it down to the frame and take it to some frame straighteners.

Bent frame

Depressing to say the least , looks like the frame head stock is bent to the right if looking from the front. Can see it in the bottom picture. One of the smaller linking frame tubes have small holes in board, the left is round, the right hand is oval, which means the frame has been shoved to the right.