Battery box

Worked out how to fit the battery box, for now it will house a standard 4kg battery but ill lose this for a 1 kg item at some point. So the bracket fits onto the frame and the xr650 original threaded bolt holes, I drilled and tapped 6 mm into the frame cross member that I've tacked on. Next to completely pull the wiring loom apart, all the wires and redo so I only need the absolute necessary. Then i can plot where i can put the cdi, and any necessary relay. If its total loss then I won't need the rectifier.
I may alter the battery housing by using the original plastic version If I cut it out from the original plastic part...ill get on with painting the frame and start rebuilding then come back to the battery box,


Then....

Before I have to work out how the seat attaches to the rear frame, the shock preload and compression units, possible exhaust hanger position.

Weld everything, check, grind
Recheck the head stock and top yoke spacer.

Lots to do

Fcr's have arrived

Just unpacked them, hopefully jetted and all ready to go!

Rear subframe cont'd

I've cut the square down tubes of the xr650 rear sub frame, and used new aluminum tubing which are drilled and fixed to the mainframe square section. I will strengthen the holes with some drilled bar and insert into the ends of the tubing. One side is attached as a mock up, I'll do the same with the other side. Fixed using stainless bolts but may change for alloy. Fixing the seat would mean a small bracket would have to be crafted but bolted to both, that it the easy bit, the hard bit will be finding a small enough battery. If I have a total loss system ill need a battery which will last a race just to power the rev counter, ignition cdi and coils. I was thinking of using a mobility scooter battery as I've seen some rated at 20 amps but look quite compact. The battery will either go under the seat at the back or somewhere down below hidden in the fairing which is another job to do. When the seat unit is fixed in the right position then ill go round re-welding and strengthening at the moment it's all tacked on in places.

Subframe height

Today just managed a little time welding a small bracket onto the frame just by the cross member where he tank sits. Used some foam to prop up the seat. Couldn't work on the triangulation of the rear aluminium frame..no time. Rear view looks odd only as the rear wheel is loose with no spacers as its the trx wheel in the yzf arm

Fcr's came but was a little bit of a damp squib cos as I unpacked it I could see it said fcr39, and on the box it had the triumph code. Such an anti-climax and a poor piece of organisation, something that's so expensive and individual, can't be that many people buying fcr carbs.
So I've repackaged them and await parcel force to collect them.

There's so much to do I hope I can get ready for Snetterton in March....

Another pic shows how close the race shock is to the arm

FCR's ordered!

Well I thought I'm going to get them so I might as well get them now the price has stayed the same for years. Got a little discount but I've ordered my 41mm FCR's...

PROJECTION component bits arrived

Here are some lovely bits from Projection components, They've fitted my stem to the R1 bottom yoke, along with some suspension stays slightly shorter than standard to raise the rear a tad and best of all the lovely big bore pipes, nice welding, can't wait to fit it all toghether when the engines in.



Just lightly bolted it togther, the vfr nitron shock fits through the yzf swing arm but only just, may have to tinker with this. Now I can get on and build the rear bit, hopefully re-using the seat unit from the vfr racer. At the mo  the rear wheel is the original trx Im just using it to get the height for the seat, need to swap a tyre over onto the yzf wheel rim( however its pink so Ill have to spray it black)...time is running out but i can only do a little at a time.

rear frame bit

Ive cut the rear subframe and going to weld in my new fixing bracket, here Im just lining it up.

Managed to get into the shed to do a little tinkering. My yokes were half done by a local shop, they popped the try stem out of its yoke and also popped the R1 stem out for £10 which wasn't too bad but it took them a few months to get it done which set me back. I've now sent them off to Projection components uk...great company to machine up bits. The TRX stem is .35mm in Diameter smaller than than the R1 so they will weld up and turn down the correct size and push it into the R1 yoke. They will also create the spacers and 'top hat 'insert for the top yoke so it all fits perfect. They also do a 2 into 1 flu bore race pipe which is tempting!